摘要
contrary to the quite general modern, developed wine model based on the varieties of the european species vitis vinifera, brazilian wine growing has been developing in the south of brazil around the varieties of the local species vitis labrusca. a strong productivity combined with the various outlets of this type of grape, as well as long run established consumption habits for this cheap ordinary wine, confer a very strong stability to this traditional wine system. it has been opposed then to the vitis vinifera model brought from europe more than thirty years ago and whose fragility constitutes a very risky management for untrained wine growers. the weight of the uses and the practices and the economic equilibrium established on the level of the production, as well as on markets, tend to slow down, and even limit the partial renewal of the brazilian vineyard. facing the resistance of wine growers to the adoption of the model vinifera, introduced by multinationals dedicated to ˋfineˋ wines, some local transformers have changed direction and gone into restructuring in order to obtain the qualitative and quantitative supply control. by excluding the wine growers from the quality process which they set up, these ˋmodernˋ producers make them prisoners of quantity wine production, reinforcing thus the validity of the traditional model.