面部皮肤衰老的外观变化及形成因素

作者:Du Kesi; Li Zeqiao; Zhang Baojiang; Zheng Yumei; Ren Hankun; Cheng Jianhua*
来源:China Surfactant Detergent & Cosmetics, 2022, 52(2): 199-206.
DOI:10.3969/j.issn.1001-1803.2022.02.013

摘要

Skin tends to show regular asymptotic changes with age, showing some specific aging signs, such as skin wrinkles, sagging and pigmentation. These aging changes affect physical attractiveness and perceived age, contradicting people’s desire to look younger. How to develop effective anti-aging products based on the mechanism of skin aging is the focus of enterprises. This paper summarized the appearance changes of skin aging, the influence of appearance signs of aging on perceived age, and the internal mechanism and external influencing factors of the skin aging signs. The most obvious and dominant skin aging signs are wrinkles and sagging, which are associated with changes in skin structure, regardless of gender, race or region, and the rest are mainly pigmentation problems. The severity of these aging problems and cultural background together affect people’s subjective judgment of age and health. The formation of wrinkles is more like the double result of muscle contraction and tissue defect, and skin softness and moisture content also play an important role. The decrease of skin thickness, extracellular matrix composition and water content associated with aging are the main contributing factors to the formation of wrinkles. The mechanism of skin sagging involves skin deformation(mechanics)caused by progressive stretching of skin by gravity, atrophy of dermis and subcutaneous adipose tissue, weakening of support force of adipose muscle and damage of elastic fibers. The appearance of“faded old woman”is related to carbonylation and glycosylation of dermal protein. Sun exposure and environmental pollution can worsen the appearance of aging, increase perceived age, and present premature aging. Skin aging signs are the result of comprehensive factors. The development of anti-aging products based on mechanisms of different skin aging signs of wrinkles, sagging, and pigmentation will be more targeted to solve consumer’s needs. This paper provides suggestions and directions for researchers to develop multi-dimensional skin anti-aging products. ? 2022 China Surfactant Detergent and Cosmetics.

全文