摘要

<正>At 3 p.m. on January2, the final day of the three-day New Year’s holiday, Song Xianhe’s teahouse is crammed with people. Customers, mainly young urbanites, are squeezed together at all five tables, in four private rooms,and at the bar counter where Song and her assistant normally sit to take orders—even crowded in the courtyard that normally serves as the waiting and smoking area.